Two extracts. |
Sailing away from anchor was a peaceful way of
departing from a tropical island, in keeping with its serenity, its waving palms
and the exotic fish in the waters. The first hint that we were under
sail came not from the motion but from the slight tilt of the deck
compared to the horizon. We were on the Coonagoola, a ketch built in
Brisbane in 1949. Only the jib and one mainsail were rigged, no doubt
out of deference to the mature age of the passengers on the tour of
Lelepa and Moso islands off Vanuatu - formerly a part of the New
Hebrides in the South Pacific.
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The scene of peace and tranquility was not always
like that. On the way there we anchored off Lelepa island for a walk up
to a cave. A chieftan had once lived there with a harem of a
hundred wives and children. The custom at the time had been for wives
to join their husband in his tomb. Legend has it that an extra strong
brew of the traditional Kava drink was served to them before they were
buried alive in the cave. Now the only sign of the former habitation was the
carved drawings on the walls. The only life, apart from our tourist
feet, was a slim, striped lizard scurrying over the rocks and a tiny hermit
crab walking across our path. |
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Other topics in this article.
Melanasian people; history; BBQ food; Snorkelling; fish; environment. |
The Coonagoola ketch at anchor;
Feeding the fish;
Barbecued food with native chef;
Lunch in the water.
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