The Crafts of Tonga. |
"Tonga provides the finest mat weaving world-wide," we were told
by the lecturer on board our cruise ship. We had docked by
Nuku-Alofa the capital of Tonga on the island of Tongatapu
and decided to take one of the organised excursions to the
Tonga National Centre where many of the crafts were to be
demonstrated. Whereas agriculture is the prime export, the
handicrafts provide an important tourist attraction and the skills, that
have been handed down over generations of Tongan history, are
maintained. It surprised us that an island in such a remote
part of the South Pacific should be a bustling centre of
activity.
The International Date Line veers east to avoid dividing Tonga into
two days. Its time is in fact 13 hours ahead of GMT. At 11pm in London
it is noon the next day in Tonga. With an average temperature
of 74 degrees F (23 C), our tour by native bus was not
air-conditioned but the open windows let in a welcome breeze.
Our first stop, under the shade of palm trees by the palace,
overlooked the Pacific Ocean. The palace, surrounded by
railings, was patrolled by guards; the only sign we saw of a need for
security - no doubt from the visitors rather than the native Tongans
whose civility was exceptional. The few stallholders nearby
did not pressure us to buy their trinkets and carvings.
Estimates of anthropologists suggest that the ancestry of the Tongan
people can be traced back to Indonesia and South East Asia. Their
navigational skills together with the constant westerly winds
enabled them to explore over thousands of miles of the Pacific
Ocean. The physical attributes necessary to achieve such feats
are reflected in the people of today. Most of the men are
massive but the visitor need have no fears on that score.
Their traditions and the extensive influence of Christianity
make these some of the safest countries to visit.
One of their traditions is the wearing of woven mats, which are
strapped around the waist. So fine is the craftsmanship that Tongans of
high birth treasure them as heirlooms which are passed onto
succeeding generations. Their standing in society is reflected
in the quality of the weave and its age. An ageing mat,
perhaps holed, is a sign of longevity and seniority in the
community.
The paper mulberry tree plays an important part in their culture since
it provides the fibrous leaf from which their cloth is made. A tree
must be at least three years old. Its bark is soaked in water
and then pounded with an Ike mallet (made of ironwood) so that
the fibres are flattened to give a strip of a heavy paper like
material. This procedure widens the material two or three
times. A glue made from tapioca root is used to join the strips
together and provide a wide cloth. |
Trays and basketwork are woven from the leaves of the pandanus palm
tree. The leaves are stripped down to their fibre using a seashell and
then dried in the sun until they assume a corn colour. The
leaf which is wide is slit into strips; the more narrow the
strip the more expensive the cloth since more work will have
been performed in its weaving. A pleasing pattern is woven
into the basketwork with strips of different shades of brown.
The finished articles are evidence of the considerable skill needed
for their assembly. Mats, trays and caskets of various shapes and sizes
are among the items for sale at reasonable prices.
We watched the preparation of lupula, a traditional dish. It consists
of corned beef marinated in coconut oil and enshrouded in taro
leaves. It is cooked in an underground oven of hot stones.
Before lunch we were invited to drink Kava, a liquid of a muddy colour
which is made from ginger-like root steeped in water. We sat
cross-legged while the Kava was ceremoniously prepared. The
root was pummelled in a bowl by a strong looking young Tongan
and water added periodically by his assistant. A young lady
using strands of coconut husk then strained the liquid. Before
drinking, the recipient had to clap once and then a shallow
bowl containing the drink was offered. It was said to be intoxicating
without the use of alcohol and to make the lips go numb. We did not
experience this sensation. Perhaps it was a weaker potion or we did
not drink enough of it.
A lunch of local fruits including pineapple, bananas and mango was
arranged on a table alongside roast suckling pig and chicken. Octopus,
clams and other fish adorned the table and we tried taro - a
sweet potato and lupula. We ate to the accompaniment of a trio
playing the melodious Polynesian tunes on guitars. Woven
screens kept out the sun but it was very warm and I was glad
that I was not in the fashion show of Tongan dresses. Custom
decreed that long trousers were worn and dresses were below the
knee. Scantier clothing was only allowed on the beach.
The breeze through the open windows of the coach was welcome on our
return journey and there was time to stop at the market square; a
bustling centre of activity with the vegetable and fruit
market alongside the bus station. In the vicinity the roads
were paved, the shops neat, and social groups of well-behaved
youngsters greeted us with a friendly hello and a smile. The
boys were attired in western clothing with the traditional mats
around their waists.
We left with the impression that it is a well ordered society, which
is happy and content with its lot. There were lessons here for other
nations. |
Royal Palace, Basket work, Splitting the cocoanu, Lupula sandwich
wrapped in taro leaf, Cabaret, Roofing design..... |