The Maldives.

Reference: Maldives

Title: Cruising the Maldives.

Length: 1500 words.

Published previously. SBSR and non-British rights available.

Travel operator: Kuoni/Voyages Jules Verne

Copyright: Derrick Grover.

Cruising the Maldives.

We were not sure it would be a good idea to cruise the Indian Ocean in January. Would the temperature at the equator contrast too much with a cold winter's day in England? Then there was the invitation to swim with stingrays. Would they be friendly and, if not, how bad was their sting? In fact the fish were the most amiable we have encountered. It was windy enough to keep cool in the shade and the air conditioning aboard ship compensated for the heat outside.

We had booked a week on the 12 cabin Atoll Explorer but as this had engine trouble we were transferred to the Island Explorer; a larger ship with 75 cabins. The former was more dedicated to scuba diving, the latter more to snorkelling and swimming on the surface. The cabins varied in size, we had a twin bedded one with a picture window and usual facilities with shower and sufficient space for storage and moving around.

The atolls of the Maldives have been built up by successive layers of coral, probably on top of a submerged mountain range, likely to be volcanic in origin. As the islands emerged above the surface of the ocean, the softer corals weathered sufficiently for vegetation to become established whilst the harder corals formed a reef enclosing a lagoon of shallow water. More than 1000 islands have formed, grouped into atolls, which extend from the equator to 7 degrees north. The islands can be traversed in 10 to 20 minutes and are up to seven feet above sea level. The tidal range is about 3 feet.

The population is a blend of people from India, Sri Lanka, Africa, Arab countries and further afield. They were converted to Islam from Buddhism in the 12th century. Apart from Portuguese occupation for a brief period in the 15th century the Maldivians negotiated protection from, in turn, the Indian, French, Dutch and British, becoming a protectorate from the late 19th Century until 1976. Accordingly English is widely spoken.

The Island Explorer sailed from Male up to the Roa Atoll. After a six-hour journey we arrived at lunchtime, ready to explore Ilfuru our first uninhabited island. It had clear sandy stretches and a section of coral for snorkelling. The main question was whether to put the insect repellent on before or after the sun cream. The resemblance to a dream island was remarkable. The blue of the sea ranged from cerulean, through turquoise to pastel green surrounded by a fringe of sparkling white surf as the waves broke over the coral. Before reaching the shade of the palm trees it is hot because the white sand reflects the sun's rays but not so hot underfoot - unlike darker sands that absorb the heat.

Most people on the ship took masks and snorkels to view the abundant variety of fish. It is not even necessary to swim. Wading through the lagoon you can see shoals of fish though the crystal clear water. Coral fragments on the beaches can be sharp so it is a good idea to have footwear. Dipping your mask under the surface gives a clearer view undisturbed by ripples. Zebra, surgeon and angelfish abound and a conga eel peeped at us from a hole in the coral.

On the beach spider like crabs - all legs and practically no body - advanced from their nest to find food and at the slightest danger would retreat at incredible speed. If they were scaled up to the size of a human they would be running at about 300 mph. Beyond the reef the scuba diving course was in operation, six dives with an instructor cost $224.

Lunch was prepared under the cover of palm trees. Barbecued fish fresh from the sea was served with jacket potatoes and mixed vegetables, which were imported.

The majority of people on the cruise were over 50; some 80% were British. The refugees from the Atoll Explorer perhaps more active than the Island Explorer's passengers. All meals on the ship were served buffet style. Breakfast was extensive but fruit was limited to fresh pineapple and tinned peaches or pears. A variety of fish and meat was offered for lunch and dinner; some subtly spiced and all the product of a master chef. A choice of three puddings was usually offered. Red wines cost from £9.40 to £36, whites to £25.

A barbecue was held in the evening - grilled jack fish, baked potatoes with yoghurt sauce and mixed vegetables. Alternatively spiced pork with saffron rice and then puddings of cheesecake and gateau. The Bodu Beri dancers entertained with traditional dances.

We had heard rumours that visitors were kept away from the indigenous population. It was not true of this cruise. Our next call was to Ungoofaaru, the capital of the Raa Atoll, which has a population of 1100 people. We were invited to see the hospital and government offices with time to wander around the town. Some parts of the residential area were enclosed by walls but others were more open shaded by banana and palm trees. We spoke to some of the inhabitants and found a friendly close knit community in which crime is unknown.

Kuda Kuridthy was the site for big game fishing. At $30 per head the catch did not pay for itself and on this occasion was not served at dinner. An alternative was night fishing for $15. It was here that we waded in the lagoon as stingrays swam around us or lay in the water stationary except for the movement of their gills. Others saw dolphin and flying fish.

A short cruise to the Baa Atoll brought us to the uninhabited island of Milaidhoo - declared to be the very best for snorkelling and diving. It was the opportunity for an introductory one-day scuba diving trip for $96. Instruction was given on the essential theory in the morning and then over the reef to share the waters with a multitude of fish at a depth of 30 to 40 feet. Shoals of brightly coloured fish swam by within inches of me as though I were a piece of coral, which happened to be shaped like a human being with a mask on. A turtle came by; I followed, moving my flippers in time with his legs as he lazily swam along the reef. A stone fish lay in a recess in the coral and nearby a sea cucumber resembling a giant millipede in green.

The bustling town of Male is the capital of the Maldives. The fish market in particular caught our attention. Outside was a pile of silvery fish, some still jumping around the tray on the pavement, and inside rows of the varied catch from the Indian Ocean. Barracuda, Bonito and Tuna were constantly doused with water making it dangerously slippery underfoot.

The vegetable market nearby displayed numerous exotic fruits and samples were freely offered. We bought a bunch of (small) Maldivian bananas for $1, no doubt we could have negotiated a lower price had we had Maldivian currency. We were told the souvenir shop expected us to bargain - not surprising since the prices quoted were higher than those at the expensive beach resorts.

Most people took the option of an extra week at the Full Moon Beach Resort, for £347 (B&B). It is a place where palm trees grow to order and a fallen flower is swept up before it can shrivel. The bungalows are air conditioned and spacious with a king size bed. For an extra £100 per week you can hire one on stilts over the water. Sharks arrive for feeding about 9 p.m., other fish are fed at 6 p.m., a giant stingray was hand-fed as it lay in the water

We were intrigued by the ghost crabs that inhabited the nearby beach. Looking like a miniature stagecoach on legs instead of wheels, they persistently dug burrows in the sand. A colony of fruit bats nested in a nearby tree until the management decided to cull them and frighten them away to another island. Whereas this limited the number of droppings on the ground they had provided an interesting experience.

Dinner could be taken at various restaurants and grills. A la Carte prices ranged from about £12 to £30. Wines were approximately 50% more than on the ship and if you wanted champagne, a bottle of Don Perignon could be delivered to your room for £160.

View some thumbnails of photographs supporting this article here.

BBQ; Native boats; water bus; Fish market; island views; etc.

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